I understand these lasers come with a variety of different software packages. I bought my laser off eBay from this listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/141690337410?roken=cUgayN&soutkn=EWCTN4 there are more for the purchasing.
I was having a speed issue while raster etching.. I hadn’t really done much besides burn some lines, etc.. well I found this issue. So here is my ultra-quick start-up guide.
- Unpack everything outside.. its a freaking styro-mess! Bring a vacuum with a hose attachment to clean out the laser. Also.. probably a solid garbage can.
- Install LaserDRW from the disc.. I couldn’t use my laptop disc drive, didn’t have one on my new laptop.. had to use a full size DVDROM in my workbench PC because the disc had a label.. so it wouldn’t read correctly in very thin laptop drives.. you’ve probably seen that before; I have. After LaserDRW install CorelDraw 12… using the key they provide in the .rar file… I’m sure this is a completely legit copy……… or I hear newer CorelDraw also works, I wouldn’t know.
- Plug the USB key into your PC… kind of annoying who wants to rip off cheap-o software?
- Launch CorelLASER .. this launches CorelDraw but with a tool bar in the upper right.
- Draw or import something like an SVG into CorelDraw then in the upper corner open the Engraving or Cutting icon and you get a screen that looks a lot like this:
- The “Speed” is the speed of the cut/grave.. I started cutting at 30, 150 for engrave.. they’re good places to start. The lower right arrow jog the laser … too bad the arrow buttons don’t work. Repeat is the number of passes.. I like to pass multiple times on lower power if possible .. can’t do that so well on cardboard without plenty of burning.
- The most important part is clicking the upper right “Properties” button and selecting the M2 board.. it had the -B selected. This was my issue. Besides that it’s pretty easy to figure out.
- After your first cut or really anything to toolbar goes away but you’ll find it down in the task menu, you can use it from there just fine.
- The only thing I’m confused on is the power. The tube is 40 watts, the power supply is 15kV.. it says up to 22mA.. doesn’t that equal >300 watts? Must be the different between input and output power? 6mA will get you through thin cardboard… it’s the recommended test current. I kind of like the manual current control.. don’t know if I’ll change that.
- DONT FORGET TO HOOK UP WATER. I really will need to get a flow switch. I see myself forgetting this and destroying the tube. The FS laser I used had a safety switch… they look cheap online.